With its Swiss Luminor Due Replica Watch, the Italian watchmaker refines the proportions of its dial cult 50s without denying its military heritage nor its robust design.
“For this new model, we reduced 40% the thickness of our Luminor 1950 through a 17 mm housing only 10, 5 mm high,” proudly announces Angelo Bonati, CEO of Officine Panerai. A challenge when we know that the success of the Italian company relies on its oversized cases, initially designed for marine commandos of the Second World War. But today, the brand launched in 1997 in the “civil” society by the Richemont group would like to expand its customer base. “In twenty years we have grown but remain a niche brand. Well known to lovers and collectors, sometimes we’re missing buyers seduced by the military aesthetic and robust of our timepieces but eventually find them too big boxes, too thick, too heavy on the wrist. ”
No offense to toqués Florentine watchmaker famous Paneristi include this model refined and relieved of a few grams all the codes that have made the success of the precision instruments supplier of the Italian Navy throughout twentieth century. Here, then, the cushion case, the minimalist dial with luminescent sticks index (for more legible models under water and in the dark, the firm is developing in the 1940s a tritium-based material called the luminor replica that gave its name to the model) but especially the famous bridge protecting the crown of the locking lever seals and preserves shocks.
Slimmer than its predecessor, this Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Replica Watch – “Two we seemed banal, Due sounds more Italian,” laughs Angelo Bonati- will be available from September in 400 outlets and 66 shops of the brand, 42 per 1000 mm with the hand-wound caliber (steel € 7,900 and € 21,500 red gold) but also 45 mm with a self-winding movement, the P.4000 (€ 10,400 steel and € 24,900 in red gold). Two gauges developed by Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel which met from 2014 all development, production and assembly.
But if he intends to attract new consumers, the watchmaker always wants to touch collectors. It is for them that the teams of the research & development department have addressed one of the most devious horological complications: the minute repeater. Nearly six years of work were required to design this piece XXL (a 49 mm case) with a winding skeleton movement with a tourbillon and a minute repeater mechanism, operating in two time zones (the caliber P2005 / MR). This 1940 Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Minute Repeater Carillon is available at stratospheric price of € 359,000. The question is whether fans (wealthy) strong military replica watches, waterproof and resistant succumb to this complex caliber, known for its fragile nature that hardly taste the deep sea dives.